There is a deteriorating low up in the northern Gulf of Alaska and a high sitting off the West coast of Vancouver Island. We, as is usual for the last two weeks, are sitting in between, clouded over, cold and threatened with rain. Other than that, this is great cruising.
Since leaving Powell River, we have been into Desolation Sound, “run” the rapids, seen eagles and bears, and ghosted through mist and islands and water.
Thulin Passage, between the Copeland Island Group and the mainland, has a set of pictographs on the stone. These shamanistic symbols have been there for quite a while. The spray paint over them is of far more recent origin. The Copelands, also called the Ragged Islands, are worth a couple of days of dinghy exploring, with nooks and crannies and small bays.
Rounding Sarah Point, entering Desolation Sound was as beautiful as we had heard, even though it was cloudy. We were headed for Grace Harbour, up Malaspina Inlet, which was supposed to be less traveled and we thought we might see our friends there from Powell River, a couple cruising in a MacGregor 26 with a 3 yr. old and a dog. We met them in Princess Louisa and they were at home in Powell River when we were there — did not have to walk to the grocery. By the way, we had been told to bypass Powell River, do Lund instead, but went there because of our friends and it was a very good choice ... easy to do laundry, great grocery, Internet cafe, all close. Yes, we rafted to a fish boat but they and we had good fenders and it was no problem.
Grace Harbor is really, really nice. We had only 9 other boats, lots of room, very sheltered. There is a small waterfall at the head where someone has strung a hose from the top into a coffee can with holes, water comes out all the time, and plywood board to stand on to make a very cool, literally, shower. Hunter took a shower ... I passed. Maybe on the way back. There is a trail to the lake, not far, but parts are wet and muddy. We will definitely go back.
From there we went to Refuge Cove, got coffee, water, a few groceries, and fresh bread. We had not planned to stay there but met up with a couple, and their dog, from Seattle cruising in their 1945 Tahiti ketch Tonga who were going our way and we have been cruising with them. They both had done extensive cruising all up and down the routes to Alaska. They were planning to depart at 0400 the next morning and pass through Yaculta and Dent Rapids and Greene Point Rapids in one day ... so we joined them.
Yes, we really did get up at 0330 and get underway exactly at 0400. It was worth it to do that. Despite wind on the nose, we got to the first set of rapids, Yaculta, approx. 30 min. early and went through exactly on time into Dent ... which of course meant that we saw them for the millponds they can be at the right time and did not see either of them at the wrong time when you know why they have the fearsome reputation they do.
Of course, just on the other side of Dent Rapids we drifted for a couple minutes congratulating ourselves on our timing and watched it start to change right in front of us, which would have sucked us right back in ... this is Hunter, “Huh, Dent Rapids, they are not so tough, hey, there is a ripple line right there, there is a boil, there is a whirlpool ... power up, we are going backwards!”
We laid over for a couple hours in Shoal Bay, there is a government dock but everything else is closed, walked the beach and had lunch until it was time to go on to Greene Point Rapids ... again a millpond. We anchored that night in Beaver Inlet, up Loughborough Inlet. Ceilidh, the dog, got to ride in our dinghy to shore. Her regular transportation is a kayak. She liked it so much that she came swimming after us when taking Travis back to the boat. We stopped and she caught up, we hauled her in and took her to her boat. The next morning was lazy, Hunter made sourdough pancakes for all and we departed early afternoon for Whirlpool Rapids, our last set, we are not doing Nakwakto. Very stiff breeze, in our face, and some choppy water ... although we have had more trouble from inconsiderate boaters’ wakes.
Stayed that night in Forward Harbour just the other side of the rapids, even had some sunshine. Douglas Bay is very nice anchorage. There is a rough trail that goes over the hill and faces Sunderland Channel, with Johnstone Strait, just beyond ... totally different scene ... anchorage side was calm and comparatively warm, the other looked a little like Ocean Shores that day ... waves crashing on the beach, cold and windy.
The next day, though, all was quiet and Puffin and Tonga had calm wind/seas to go out into the fearsome Johnstone Strait, so it was not so fearsome that day ... We will not complain. We only went a little ways before ducking off into Havannah channel ... with a lunch stop at Matilpi Cove. The site of an abandoned and overgrown Indian village, the midden, white shell beach, stands out against the trees. Beautiful place to dinghy around. I found an eagle feather and Hunter mixed bread and set it to rise while we made the passage through Chatham Channel, not really a rapids but very river delta like, shallow, lots of kelp. On the other side, we drifted up to Tonga to pass them the bread, ready to bake in their oven en route to our next stop at Minstral Island. We could smell it baking as we followed. Hunter spotted a mother bear and 2 cubs on the shore and we stopped and took pictures. They were eating Salmon berries, just like we did everywhere we went.
Minstrel Island Resort is a bit pretentious for what is actually left functioning there. A government dock, at the head is a gate closed at night, a small restaurant and bar, fuel dock. The weather was windy, cold, and rainy and broadcast to be worse in the Strait so we stayed put there. The people, Sylvia and Grant, and their very big dogs are very friendly but things are definitely not on the upswing. We were told that the poor fishing, and the weather this month, has made it more and more difficult to stay ahead and many places are failing. Sylvia makes good pie and has beautiful roses and perennials. We had a great time and Hunter even shared his Key Lime Pie recipe, and the little bit of juice we had left. Sylvia figures she will make it for her birthday.
When it stopped blowing, we left for Port McNeil via Knight Inlet and cutting off into Village Channel, where we passed Mamalilaculla, another mostly abandoned Indian village. We did not have time to stop and visit now but will when we come down later on. That whole area is really, really beautiful, lots of little anchorages. We had low clouds and misty rain. We could see why it is a kayaker’s dream. We had some scattered fog when we came out into Blackfish Sound and Tonga took the lead, they had radar. But we had no problem, no traffic and completely calm all the way to Port McNeil.
So here we are on Canada Day and will go tomorrow, weather permitting, up to Port Hardy. Or if it is not blowing, we will go on to God’s Pocket. We have everything we need, including time.
A question was asked a few weeks ago concerning the cruising guides that we are using. They are, in order of use:A truly fascinating collection of stories, tales, legends, villages, people, places, things, and a vanishing way of life, is the multi-volume magazine called Raincoast Chronicles. It is published somewhat annually and is the stories that make up, and made up, the British Columbia coast. Logging, fishing, living, vacations, steamers, shipwrecks, gold rushing, mission life, medical care, flying, personalities by the hundreds, whorehouses, bars, resorts, lodges, communities, and the list of subjects continues on far into the past. The Chronicles are all oral tales, told by those who lived it, were there or heard it from participants; historians, poets, fervent hobbyists, and essayists have all contributed to a remarkable picture of B.C.’s past. If you can find them at the library or in a used bookstore, or even new, read them.
The next update is likely to be a few weeks away, as the communities that we may visit are connected by boat or satellite pay phone. Hang in there, we will be back in touch.
Yours aye,
Debi and Hunter
I am writing this blind as I have not been able to receive e-mail since the last sending. I hope all are well.
We have been busy since we finally got underway with the new engine. Once the engine was in place, we were gone following a stop for ice and posting real mail.
Through our first set of rapids, Dodd Narrows, at the northern tip of the Gulf Islands. This is a very easy looking set of rapids. We motored up, entered, got to the tip of the tongue, the GPS went from a comfortable 4 kt. over ground to a very fast 9 kt., and started to waltz from side to side with a swinging partner call in the middle. Safe and considerably smarter, we got into Nanaimo, B.C.
Debi: I did the time calculations for this rapids and we did not find out for days that I did not realize they were not corrected for Daylight Savings Time. Oops, I will not make that mistake again.
If ever you need Canadian or American charts, Nanaimo Maps and Charts, 8 Church Street, is the place to go. Debi would not let me look at anything but the chart list we had made up, but when you are in a bookstore full of marine history, marine fiction, marine maintenance, marine legends, guide books, “I was there” books, natural world guides, and anything currently published in the marine literature, ...well, I guess some of you know me by now.
The list of charts we needed ended up costing $1,054 Canadian. Ouch! Twenty dollars a sheet. Oh, and one book to read. Had to, could not walk out.
The Inaugural Cadillac Van Isle 360° Race, around Vancouver Island in legs, started while we were there in Nanaimo. While admiring the boats, we saw Endangered Species, the race boat belonging to John Guzzwell. We did not meet him there, but we did meet his crew mate for the Northern Vancouver Island to Victoria leg, Larry Pardey.
We met him after Debi had jumped about a foot in the air, after turning around and finding herself face to face with Lin. “Oh my God, it's Lin Pardey!” The Pardeys had been visiting with John Guzzwell and Larry wanted to crew the outside portion of the race and John was happy to have him. Quite a day, for us.
To Ena and Pete Pedersen, thanks for the hospitality and the book.
From Nanaimo we crossed the infamous Strait of Georgia, prepared for the worst, hatches tight, fingers crossed. Flat as a pancake all the way across. The highlight of the crossing was the parade of cruise ships that crossed our track. Four bigg’uns, in line with three or four miles between themselves. We stayed that night in Smugglers Cove, beautiful place, very interesting entrance, and went on to Bathgate, at Egmont, the next day enroute to our next destination.
We took the only planned side trip of the cruise north, the sixty mile round trip up Jervis Inlet to Princess Louisa Inlet. We wanted to go there now, while the huge winter snow fields were still pouring water into the inlet. Of course, that meant timing the proper entrance through Malibu Rapids during the lowest tide of the year; which is not the usual way to do it, high slack being preferred. We planned it right and had no trouble.
Deb: except my heart.
It is hard to describe Princess Louisa, words do not convey the mountains, the dark water, the snow and ice hanging far overhead and the number of waterfalls, leaping, shifting, frothing, splashing, roaring waterfalls. The prize is Chatterbox Falls, at the very head of the Inlet. The roaring rumble of Chatterbox can be heard over a mile away and the gouts of mist blown out by the hammer of water is a stationary cloud.
If ever you get up here, Princess Louisa should be on your must see list. Try for the late spring, before the snow fields have avalanched or melted away, for all the smaller cascades will not be there when that occurs. We stayed 2 nights, one at anchor and one at the dock, before heading back to Egmont.
Debi and I both had skookum burgers at the Backeddy Pub, at Egmont and can attest to the reputation that they have. Whew, that is a lotta sandwich.
From Egmont, we will be traveling North, taking the more sheltered Inside Passage, through Desolation Sound, and the five rapids till we come to Queen Charlotte Sound.
Again, hoping all are well and ready to start the summer cruising season.
Yours aye,
Debi and Hunter
This is our seventh day, eighth night in Ganges Harbour, Salt Spring Island, British Columbia. We are snug and comfy in Puffin, we just have not cast off a line to move out while we are waiting for a new engine. Uh-huh, a new outboard. To replace the one that we just had serviced and extended.
The extra long extension that cost so dearly to install may have been the reason for the engine failure. We are not sure and probably never will be. The engine, 8 horse four stroke Honda, is twelve years old and has operated only in salt water. So the fact that we did not have serious problems until now is the shining point of light in all of this.
The engine would quit, then we could immediately restart. This went on for five minutes or an hour, then quit again. Restart... Last Sunday, 30 May, after shutting the engine off at Salt Spring Marina, formerly Harbour's End, there was a drip of oil down the casing, starting somewhere near the drain plug. The Honda shop here looked at the engine Monday and told us that it was not easy to see what was wrong. Further investigation would start running up the shop bill and did we want them to continue. Their feeling was that it was really not worth it.
We decided not to invest more time and money into a suspect hole and decided to purchase a new 8 horse four stroke extra long shaft Honda. All well and good, the hitch was, the only one available in all of Canada, was in Winnipeg, or Winterpeg to every Canadian resident we have seen. That is why we are waiting in Ganges.
The first parts of the cruise have been great. We departed the South Sound on 15 May. Timing for the Narrows was good and we were in Seattle, at Shilshole Marina, by 1500. Picked up what we had on hold at West Marine and were visited by Karla and Don Marken of the Flicka Kiri. In my remarks in the log, “...interior is a real hodge-podge of gear. Things need homes.”
Our next stop was Port Townsend, WA. As we entered the pilings leading into Pt Hudson Marina, John Hazen, of the Flicka Windward Pilgrim, hailed us from his position on the public boardwalk. It seems we have to leave home to see anyone. We were picking up our genoa from PT Sails, where it had been recut and reinforced. Debi spent two days doing hand work, hanks and chafe gear, at one of Hasse's benches and I walked a lot.
Our next port o'call was Anacortes. Here we were having two side rails installed, one on each side, between the stanchions. These were to secure our extra water and fuel cans to, instead of lashing them to the stanchions and life lines. The work was done by Stephen Brooks of Brooks Marine. Fitting and installation was done in one day and we thank Steph for his time out of a hectic schedule. Ever since the installation, we have received many positive comments on the rails. The extra cans look like planned storage rather than ad lib.
Another major task that got accomplished was the sending of three more boxes of excess “stuff” to Colorado and Debi's Mom, Fran. We also left a milk crate containing some pans, some cheap pots and the like for whoever needed them. The items disappeared in an hour.
At last, the actual trip was starting. We planned a few days in the San Juans to get ourselves down to boat speed and finish storing things. We sailed for much of the next three days, ending up in Reid Harbor, Stuart Island. We were fine until the dinghy got loose, my fault, and we had to swoop into shore to retrieve her. I swear the spreaders were in the pines when we hooked the dinghy and turned back to the mooring. Just short of the mooring, with an eight to ten knot wind blowing into us, the engine stopped. This time, it would not restart. While I warmed up on the starter cord, Debi dropped the anchor and we stayed off of the shore we had just visited. All was well in the end, but that is when we lost our confidence in the Honda.
The nearest thing to slapstick comedy on any given weekend has got to be the Customs float in Bedwell Harbour, South Pender Island, Canada. Memorial Day weekend. We were already at the marina and could sit back and watch the festivities. Arriving boats would mill around, or dash in, grabbing a piece of float. Line handlers would jump off and try to fend big, windy boats off with only arms or thin lines. Everyone wanted to be on the outside float and the inside would be empty. Go figure. All seemed to end well, but it was fun to see the boats coming in to check in.
Another highlight of Bedwell Harbour is the performing eagle. This fat youngster sits up in a tree overlooking the marina. If you whistle to get his attention and shake a piece of bologna or steak, I did say he was fat, and then toss the meat into the water, he will launch, swoop, flare with his wings cupped and talons extended, snag the meat and fly back to his tree. All just a few yards away from you. Mighty hunter, sure.
We arrived in Ganges after a wonderful sail below the Penders and into Ganges Harbour. We called Greg Watson, another Flicka owner who lives on Salt Spring Island and have been fortunate to have him here, as we are borrowing quite a few charts and a couple of cruising guides. Thanks to him for his time in an otherwise busy schedule, Greg, Hah!
We can now move freely about the cabin, sleep without laying on lumpy bundles, and cook without having to empty every galley bin. We are getting used to consulting the packing chart whenever we need something new, or something the wanting individual did not put away last.
We continuously hear comments from the passerby that this is a stout little boat, a trim looking sailor, cute, great color scheme, small, ready for anything and everything. To the other Flicka owners, you know what we mean. To the rest of the poor folks without a Flicka, try to control your envy, it doesn't become you.
Until the next update.
Yours aye,
Debi and Hunter
We will keep you updated. Ed